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Visitors to the Amazon who expect a "Discovery Channel ... with "excellent" wildlife watching amid an "immaculate" forest "teeming with birds and animals" like macaws and howler monkeys.

The Amazon by day is a place ... or kill—a curassow (a game bird), a handful of fruits, manioc dug from an abandoned clearing. At night we huddled on the forest floor beneath driving rains.

In the lead up to the 20th anniversary of the death of Sister Stang, who is considered by many as a "Martyr of the Amazon," a ...