The menu wording, instead, serves less as information and more as part of the aesthetic project of the entire restaurant. “Beginnings” is more casual than “appetizers” to Wu-Bower ...

Called Pinwheel Kitchen, the menu will focus on different pinwheels and one-of-a-kind sauces to pair with them.

Plenty of items you find on a restaurant menu are going to be well worth ordering, but this old-school seafood appetizer is not one of them.