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Leave it to Gray Kunz—that master of the haute and hearty—to out-schnitzel the competition. While a nice breaded veal, pork, or chicken cutlet—lemon wedge and parsley sprig at the ready ...

Geoffrey Zakarian isn’t the only chef in town who’s reinventing the great raw-beef classic (Gray Kunz serves a version at Café Gray, John LaFemina offers one at the Orchard). It’s just that ...