At Vinnies I will often use creme fraiche or mascarpone as an alternative when creating desserts that would normally call for whipped cream. Heat oven to 180C. Wash the rhubarb, then cut into batons.

Mix well, then fold in the creme fraiche. Season to taste with black pepper. Drain the asparagus and divide between two (or four) plates. Serve with a generous spoonful of the sauce.

The best crème fraîche comes from a strictly controlled area of Normandy called Isigny-sur-Mer and it’s sold in larger supermarkets here. A half-fat version of crème fraîche is available ...