I admit to being one of them and I’m in good company: the late Alan Davidson, author of the magisterial The Oxford Companion To Food (1999), observed, ‘only bitter oranges can be used to make proper ...

Seville oranges are sold in the last three weeks of January. Bitter (Seville) oranges are classically used in cooking, not just in marmalade but also in dishes such as Duck à l’orange.