Café Giang serves the original; modern cafés offer creative twists. Thai Iced Coffee, or Oliang, is a bold, nutty brew made with roasted grains, sweetened with condensed milk, and served over ice.

Always packed and trilling with the sound of workhorse woks, this hole-in-the-wall is a two-decade-old institution that doesn’t shirk on heat, flavour, ingredients or buzz. You will queue. You will ...