The first time I ate at Fan Tang in Nob Hill was a decade ago, but it took me until last Sunday to sit down for a meal at the Northeast Heights location.

Dragons were a symbol of luck and protection from natural disasters during the Tang Dynasty, archaeologists said.

That this shift is occurring outside of Chinatown is encouraging, and Wilson Tang, who had previously brought back to life Chinatown’s oldest restaurant, Nom Wah Tea Parlor, has brought the cuisine to ...